Saturday, 6 April 2013

Eating in Copenhagen: Coffee Collective, Meyer's Bageri, Sweet Treats, Granola

Whilst dashing around the city trying to cram in as much as I could over 3 days there was many stops for quick lunches, very good coffees and buns. This is the sort of eating I really enjoy when I'm away, trying bits here and there and making the whole day one long meal, with some art and culture thrown in  in between for good measure. And of course the big meals and beers at the end of the day I wrote about in Part 1.

These are my favourite breakfasts and bakeries, cheap eats and buns from across Copenhagen. 

Bakeries, Coffee and Croissants: Coffee Collective, Meyer's Bageri and Sweet Treats 

There were plenty of cool coffee shops and bakeries with piles of cinnamon buns to choose from but these were my favourites.

Coffee Collective seem to have something of a stronghold on the craft coffee scene in Copenhagen, with their own micro roastery and coffee shops. We visited both their coffee bar in the food heaven of Torvehallerne, which was like Borough Market but housed in two large glass buildings, where I got a refreshing and crisp slow drip coffee and the other half accidentally stole a small boy's latte. We also visited their main shop on Jaegersborggade where the main floor space is taken up by their roaster. I was regretful at having only taken hand luggage so I couldn't bring any beans back with me.

Plus, the Coffee Collection takeaway cups have really fantastic packaging.

The coffee was exquisite, although I'm sure enjoying it in the sun in a foreign city amplified the taste and enjoyment slightly. I can't believe I went to Copenhagen and felt like I'd been on a hot holiday compared with England which seems to have fallen under the rule of the White Witch.

 Just across the street on Jaegersborggade is Meyer's Bageri, home to the most amazing buns and bread. As well as whole range of breads, the Danish bakeries seemed to stick to a smaller range of sweet options, often buns or pastry products. Meyer's Bageri was set up by Claus Meyer, co-founder of Noma and self titled 'Gastronomic Entrepreneur' - he looks to be a man with his hand in many tasty pies. Meyer's Bageri is home to their legendary kanelsnurrer, a sweet, folded cinnamon bun, when walking into the tiny shop that's all you can smell. We came away with one and some macaroons, caramel & peanut and cherry & liquorice.

Sweet Treats, over in Christianshavn, is mentioned in the Where Chef's Eat Book which is the perfect textbook for a  restaurant nerd like me. The book lists places around the world that the best chefs like to eat at. Sweet Treats was nothing fancy, a rather unassuming tiny cafe, offering good coffee and good pastry at very reasonable prices. I was in a fragile state after having a total nervo at the top of a nearby church tower, so was really glad to be sat down anywhere that was near to the ground, the coffee and crispy croissant was added bonus. 

On our second afternoon we headed up the coast to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Modern Art which is one of the most amazing cultural venues I've ever been to. A piece of minimal 50's architecture nestled on the stunning Danish cliff tops looking over to Sweden. The cafe was crazy pricey but I've still got serious dreamy lust for this pink cloud of a bun. 

Oh and that view.

Breakfast: Granola

Although our hotel was rather dreamy, the breakfast wasn't included was around 165 dkk each which is nearly £20 so even for the nicest all organic breakfast buffet it's still totally ludicrous. Just up the street however was one of my favourite stops from the trip, Granola on Vaernedamsvej which is a street renowned for it's food venues. 

Granola is a charming 1930's French inspired ice cream parlour and cafe, full of traditional touches, decor and prints. I felt childish glee knowing I could order a huge strawberry milkshake because I'm an adult dammit and I'm on holiday. That combined with some fluffy, buttery pancakes, maple syrup and berries created one all mighty sugar headache but was well worth it.  

Cheap Eats: Den økologiske Pølsemand

I'd never really connected Denmark with hot dogs, but after doing some research it seems to be one of the defining dishes of the country. Safe to say we found the best at Den økologiske Pølsemand, translating as The Organic Sausage Man.

Located at the bottom of the Round Tour in the middle of tourist town, it was a good option for a cheap lunch, we got everything on our standard dogs housed in sourdough and linseed buns, and whilst I'm not really sure what any of it was bar some very good pickles and crispy onions, it was top class dog. Could have eaten about three of them mind.

For eating, and for everything else in between, Copenhagen is definitely recommended. From the hip meat packing district and Vesterbro restaurants, to craft coffee and beer bars I did fall a little bit in love with the city, its attitude and atmosphere.

Now I'm going to spend the next 6 months learning how to ride a bike properly and make the other half grow a beard so we can move there.

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